Kimono, 19th Century
Japan
Lining, gold and silk; 72 x 49 1/4 in.
34981
Gift of Mr. Bruce I. Hesse
This lightweight silk kimono is incredibly vibrant making it hard to believe that it dates from the first half of the 19th century. The heavy gold thread that constitutes and accentuates many design elements throughout the kimono retains every bit of brilliance, and rarely does the human eye come across such a rich and saturated color as that of the safflower dyed red-orange inner lining.
The Japanese consider the kimono as a fine art object, no different then painting or sculpture,and here the artist’s creativity and meticulous skills are evident. A number of techniques were used to create the copious amount of ornamentation found throughout the entire composition including embroidery, hand painting, couching and the application of a rice paste that resisted dye. By applying rice paste onto the silk before dying the artist was able to control if details such as leaves and rocks were to remain white. The number of hours to create such an object as this must be astounding.
Kimono designs correlated to seasons and occasions. They revealed the status of an individual and could be worn (as part of an ensemble) to invoke specific socially understood connotations. Often design elements and their combinations held personal meaning for their owners. Several symbols of prosperity and longevity (cranes, 10,000 year old turtles, open fans and an insect cage) adorn this kimono. These symbols are placed among elements that relay the beauty of the natural world including bamboo, rocks, water and a multitude of flowers and leaves. The masterful combination of color and design of this kimono is harmonious and notions of celebration and bountiful life permeate throughout it.
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